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Learn · Buying guide

How to buy a diamond you'll still like in ten years.

This is the sequence we walk customers through on a consultation call, in order, with the parts most people get wrong flagged along the way. It applies whether you buy from us or not.

  1. 01

    Set a budget you'd repeat

    Ignore the two-months-salary line; it was an advertising slogan, not guidance. A useful test is whether you'd spend the same amount again a year from now without flinching. Decide the number before you look at stones, because the difference between a 1.80 ct and a 2.00 ct is easy to talk yourself into at 11pm.

    Budget the whole ring, not just the stone. On a typical build the centre stone is 55–70% of the total; the mounting, any accent diamonds, sizing and the appraisal make up the rest.

  2. 02

    Choose the shape first

    Shape is the one decision that is purely about taste, and it constrains everything after it — price per carat, which specs matter, which settings work. Get it settled before you start comparing numbers.

    If you're buying a surprise, look at what they already wear: rounded jewelry usually means round, oval or cushion; angular, architectural pieces usually mean emerald, radiant or princess.

  3. 03

    Set your specification floor

    Rather than chasing the highest grades, decide the lowest ones you're happy with and then buy the biggest, best-cut stone that clears them. Our default floor for a centre stone is excellent or ideal cut, G colour, VS2 clarity, confirmed eye-clean.

    Adjust for shape: step cuts (emerald, Asscher) want F–G and VS1 because they hide nothing; brilliant cuts tolerate H and SI1 well. In yellow or rose gold you can drop a colour grade and never see it.

  4. 04

    Read the report, not just the summary

    Look the report number up on the laboratory's own site, confirm the report says laboratory-grown, then look at the measurements, the depth and table percentages, the length-to-width ratio and the plotted inclusions — not only the headline grades.

    Two stones with identical 4Cs can differ by half a millimetre in spread and by a visible amount in liveliness. Ask for the actual stone's video before you commit.

  5. 05

    Pick the setting and metal together

    White gold is rhodium plated for its bright finish and needs replating every couple of years; yellow and rose gold never need plating. 14k is harder-wearing than 18k and a little paler in yellow; 18k is richer and slightly softer. Choose for the hand it will live on.

    Hands-on jobs favour a bezel or low-profile basket over a high cathedral setting. Pavé looks superb but adds maintenance; if a stone is ever lost because of a defective setting, our Lifetime Warranty replaces it.

  6. 06

    Get the size right

    Measure at the end of the day, at room temperature, on the hand that will wear the ring — fingers change by up to half a size between morning and evening and more across seasons. Wide bands fit tighter than narrow ones, so size up a quarter for anything over 6 mm.

    Resizing is available for a fee on eligible styles. Full eternity bands cannot be resized, which is worth knowing before you choose one.

  7. 07

    Insure it, then wear it

    Every piece ships with an appraisal for insurance. Schedule the ring on your homeowner's or renter's policy, or use a dedicated jewelry insurer; either way the appraisal is what the underwriter needs.

    Clean it at home with warm water, a drop of dish soap and a soft brush. Take it off for the gym, gardening, chlorine and bleach — chemicals damage the mounting long before they touch the diamond.

Six mistakes worth avoiding

Paying for flawless

FL and VVS grades cost real money for something invisible without a loupe. Buy eye-clean and put the difference into cut or size.

Ignoring the bow-tie

Ovals, pears and marquises all have one. Photos hide it; video does not.

Comparing across labs

IGI and GIA do not always land on the same grade for the same stone. Compare like with like or you'll misread the price.

Buying on the magic number

A 1.95 ct usually looks identical to a 2.00 ct and prices lower. Nobody is measuring your ring.

Forgetting the wedding band

If the engagement ring has a low-set stone or a curved gallery, a straight band won't sit flush. Plan the pairing early.

Rushing the timeline

Everything we sell is made to order and ships in two to three weeks. Add a buffer if there's a date attached.

Want a second opinion before you buy?

Send us the report number of any stone — including one you're considering elsewhere — and we'll tell you what we see in it. Thirty minutes, no obligation, no commission on the other end of the call.